» Portugal » Obidos » Obidos is a city where it’s easy to get lost and not regret it

You don’t need maps in Obidos – you’ll go wherever you want to go anyway. And then suddenly you’ll find yourself on the fortress wall or in a bookshop in the church. Some people like it that way, while others take a guide as an assistant so as not to miss any of the secret streets.

How to get to Obidos

There are plenty of ways to get to Obidos – each with its own advantages. Choose whichever is closer to your traveling style.

Ready-made option – excursion from Lisbon

If you don’t fancy fiddling with schedules and itineraries, you can go straight on a half-day tour from Lisbon. A guide will show you all the corners of Obidos, tell you stories, and help you get a real feel for the city.

  • Public transport

    For those who are traveling independently and are not afraid of getting lost in schedules:

    • Bus – the most convenient way: about an hour’s journey from Lisbon and you get off right at the main gates of Obidos
    • Train – the journey will take about two hours, and you’ll have to walk 15 minutes from the station to the city centre
  • By car

    You can also get to Obidos by renting a car. This is a good option if you want to stop by a winery or the ocean at the same time.

    • From Lisbon, it’s about an hour’s drive along a straight and pleasant motorway
    • From Porto, the journey takes about two hours and there are some great places to stop along the way

Obidos Attractions

Obidos is a city where the sights come out to meet you. You can just walk around and look around, or you can look out for a few places that you won’t want to miss.

Porta da Vila

This gate, once part of the city’s fortifications, now opens the way to the old part of the city. The main gate of Obidos greets you with a graceful balcony decorated with azulejo – blue and white tiles from the 18th century. The inscription under the balcony is dedicated to St Mary, the patron saint of the city. 

Passing through the arch, it is almost impossible not to look up – so spectacularly decorated it is. 

In the very centre of the city, a few steps from Porta da Vila, is the Realmente restaurant. It offers exquisite Portuguese dishes with a modern twist. Fish, as usual, is at the top of the list, but the calduverde, a traditional soup eaten in Portugal in both winter and summer, is also worth a try.

Fortress Walk

The city centre is surrounded by strong fortress walls, a real stone ring that completely encompasses the old town. These walls are not just a decoration; you can walk on them! From the heights, you can enjoy beautiful views of the surrounding countryside, including the green valleys and neighbouring villages. You can climb up any of the staircases, but you should be careful – there are fences not everywhere.

Obidos Castle – the heart of the fortress

And in the centre of this ring is the 12th-century castle itself. Massive, like in the history books, yet decorated in the Manuelino style – the Portuguese version of late Gothic. It’s worth climbing the walls to see the city from above, just as its former defenders did. 

The castle is on the list of the Seven Wonders of Portugal, just as the world has its own «seven wonders of the world»‎. By the way, if you want to build your collection of «wonders»‎, check out the other iconic places:

  • Pena Palace – a real setting for a beautiful fairy tale
  • The Belém Tower in Lisbon – the guardian of the Tagus and another symbol of Portugal

» READ MORETower of Belém: from sea power to mysterious rhinoceros head

  • Hotel Pousada Castelo de Óbidos

    Today, the castle is home to the Pousada Castelo de Óbidos Hotel, but you don’t have to book a room to take a peek inside. Guests have access to a garden, terrace, and observation deck with beautiful views of the town and surrounding area.

Abilio de Matus y Silva Museum

Once a place where people were tried and imprisoned, but today it hosts exhibitions and discusses paintings. The former town hall and prison has become a museum dedicated to the artist Abilio de Matos e Silva, whose work is easily recognisable for its love of his native Portugal and lively detail. The exhibition is small but cosy. 

And next door is the Arco da Cadejo, an ancient passageway with a view that begs to be framed. Tourists take photos, and artists paint.

Literary life

In 2015, Obidos was awarded UNESCO City of Literature status, thanks to the efforts of local entrepreneur José Pinho. He has managed to breathe new life into empty buildings by turning them into bookshops. 

  • Livraria de São Tiago is a bookshop housed in the former church of St James. Here, books are not just on shelves, but between stained glass windows and under the vaults where the organ and choirs used to be played 
  • Livraria Artes & Letras is a shop of rare and antique books within the walls of a former winery. Where else can you smell paper and wine at the same time? 
  • Livraria do Mercado is an old fire station, where instead of hoses and ladders, there are shelves made of fruit crates. A shop where you want to do more than just read
  • The Literary Man Hotel

    The culmination of Obidos’s transformation is The Literary Man, the world’s largest literary hotel. Thousands of books fill its rooms and lobbies.

Winemaking

Just a few kilometres outside the city, you can not only drink wine but also understand how it’s made here. 

  • Quinta do Sanguinhal is one of the region’s most famous farms. Here, they show how the local wines are born and pour generously at tastings. The route will take you through vineyards, cellars, and ancient presses
  • Vale de Cortém Vinhos Biológicos will suit those looking for something special: here, they make organic wines without unnecessary chemicals and additives. You can try from three to six varieties, depending on the programme. Those who appreciate natural flavours will particularly enjoy it
  • Hostel Argonauta

    Stay in a former winery. You can choose a private double room or a shared room for company and new acquaintances. A nice bonus – it’s a couple of minutes’ walk to all the main sites. 

The main gastronomic symbol of the city is Ginjinha d’Óbidos, a cherry liqueur with a rich aroma and sweet flavour. It is served in chocolate shot glasses, which makes tasting it particularly memorable. You can try the liqueur at Bar Ibn Errik Rex or Mariquinhas Experience Óbidos, for example.

Festivals

Óbidos knows how to party. From jousting tournaments to chocolate marathons, there’s something going on at almost any time of year. If you’re planning a trip, check the calendar – it’s easy to get caught up in the festivities.

Spring – International Chocolate Festival

In the spring, Obidos is gripped by chocolate fever. The city is filled with the aroma of cocoa and sweet pastries, and chocolate sculptures, from miniatures to real castles, appear on the streets. You can try unusual desserts, take part in masterclasses, or just stroll around and sometimes catch yourself thinking, «Do I smell cakes or are the walls already so sweet?»

Summer – Medieval Fair

In summer, Obidos returns to the 13th century. Merchants, knights, musicians, and jugglers fill the streets, selling drinks in clay mugs and roasting meat over an open fire. You can sample dishes based on ancient recipes, check out theatre performances, and listen to music without microphones. All this is not a museum, but a living city in role.

Autumn is Folio, a literary festival

At this time, Obidos is packed not with tourists, but with booksellers of all stripes. Throughout the city, there are book fairs, lectures, meetings with authors, and strange installations that you can argue over at length over a glass of wine. 

Even if you’re not a fan of literature, Folio is sure to have something interesting to look at, whether you’re looking at illustrations or drinking coffee among the books.

Winter – Christmas Festival

In December, the castle and streets are decorated with garlands and gingerbread houses. There is a skating rink, a fair, and sometimes you can meet a live Santa. 

The main thing is not to think that it will be boring without snow: the Portuguese know how to make a warm and cheerful Christmas with the aroma of cinnamon and tangerines. It’s a good time to drink mulled wine and buy yourself something fun to remember.

Best beaches around Obidos

If you want to swap the fortress walls for sand and waves, you’ll want to hit the beach. 

  • Praia da Foz do Arelho

    One of the most famous is Praia da Foz do Arelho, a beach with a dual character: a calm lagoon for family gatherings and the invigorating waves of the Atlantic for kite surfers. 

  • Praia de São Martinho do Porto

    Equally popular is the shell beach of Praia de São Martinho do Porto, a warm and quiet cove for those who appreciate tranquillity. 

  • Praia da Almagreira

    A spacious and almost deserted beach for surfers is Praia da Almagreira, a place with a wide sandy shore and strong waves. 

  • Praia de São Bernardino

    For those looking for a quieter spot, there’s Praia de São Bernardino, with moderate waves and an easy slope, often frequented only by locals.

Obidos is the perfect place to fall out of time for a while: wander round the fortress, taste liqueur in a chocolate shot glass, and accidentally enter a festival. And beyond that, it’s up to you. You can stay here for another day, or you can continue your journey – for example, traveling around Portugal by car in a fortnight, or fly to an island and spend a week on Madeira Island.

0 replies

Leave a Reply

Want to join the discussion?
Feel free to contribute!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *