In December, Paris sparkles with lights and seems to dress itself in festive attire. Everywhere you look, there are beautifully decorated shop windows, magical Disneyland, cosy Christmas markets, an ice rink at the town hall and, of course, Christmas trees on every corner.
We already have separate articles about New Year’s and Christmas, so we won’t take attention away from them. Here, we’ll talk about December itself – what to do at this time of year if you’re tired of garlands or not particularly interested in them.
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The last week of the month is the busiest tourist time of the year: crowds, queues, astronomical prices. Hotels and airline tickets skyrocket in price, like a champagne cork on the Champs-Élysées. Therefore, if you’re not dreaming of celebrating New Year’s Eve by the Christmas tree in the square, it’s better to come to Paris early — at the beginning of December.
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Weather: cloudy, wet, but beautiful
Winter is not always about snowmen and minus twenty degrees. In Paris, it’s different: slush, rain and a lot of grey. But there’s beauty in this too.
The temperature in December stays around +7…+9 °C during the day, but it can surprise you. Sometimes it suddenly warms up to +15 °C, and sometimes it drops to -3 °C or even -7 °C at night. That’s the ‘winter lottery’ for you.
And if you don’t want to spend your time drying your socks in your hotel room, choose your clothes wisely.
- Although snow is rare in Paris, you will need an umbrella: it rains almost every other day — more often drizzling than pouring, but persistent nonetheless
- Wrap up warm, but don’t dress like you’re going to a ski resort: it’s better to wear several layers than one thick one. Warm shoes and a good raincoat are your best allies
However, don’t pack your suitcase to the brim. After all, New Year’s Eve is just around the corner, and you’ll definitely want to bring something back from Paris for your family and friends.
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What to do in Paris in December
The city has two moods: at first, it lives in anticipation, without the festive hustle and bustle, and closer to Christmas, it blossoms in full force. You can catch the rehearsal, or you can go straight to the main performance! But don’t forget that December in Paris is not just about fairs and garlands – there is something for everyone.
The first half of December
If you arrive in Paris before the 20th, the city will greet you not only with lights, but also with a quietness that is rare for December. The atmosphere is already festive, but the French work until 24 December, and the tourist peak is still ahead.
This is a short window when the decorations are already up, but people are not yet crowding the streets. The metro is not packed with suitcases, museums breathe freely, and you can sit by the window in a café without fighting for a table.
Under the glass dome of Galeries Lafayette, a giant Christmas tree appears every year – a living fantasy on a given theme. In 2024, it was a winter garden with flashing animals, a ferry and music. And at Le Bon Marché, there are shop windows from Dior, Loewe and other fashion houses: you walk among the luxury goods as if through a film set. All this sparkles from mid-November to 5 January.
» READ MORE – Paris Christmas window displays: a fairy tale behind glass
Where to catch the mood:
- The fair in the Tuileries Garden (from 16 November) is already in full swing: ice rink, Ferris wheel, hot chocolate and the smell of roasted chestnuts
- Everything is on a grand scale at La Défense: 350 chalets, a food court, an ice rink (from 14 December) at a height – the architectural contrast with the garlands looks impressive
- Notre Dame is cosier from 8 to 25 December – more handicrafts and delicacies
- Montmartre is especially beautiful right now – before Abbesses Square is completely covered with selfies and mulled wine
And if you want something completely different:
- AURA Invalides – a light show at the Invalides (until 31 December), modern and almost meditative
- Expo4Art (12–14 December) – an art fair at the Halle des Blancs Manteaux, free admission
- Ice rink under the dome of the Grand Palais (from 13 December): beautiful, spacious and in the spirit of the Belle Époque
- Paul Poiret exhibition at MAD (until 11 January) – an unexpected choice for lovers of fashion and theatre
If you are planning a walk, check out our selection of Paris Christmas markets on the map so you don’t get lost among the chalets.
» READ MORE – Christmas market in Strasbourg
After 20 December
The closer it gets to Christmas, the more lavish the city becomes. And it’s not just about the markets – Paris itself is transformed: houses are lit up, bridges sparkle, and department store windows (especially Galeries Lafayette and Le Bon Marché) become real theatrical stages. There are spinning gears, plush animals waving their paws, dancing Christmas trees and trains travelling through snowy landscapes – everything moves and sparkles to music. Children stick to the glass, adults too, though they pretend they’re «just taking pictures.»
If you want something family-friendly or magical:
- Children will definitely enjoy the Christmas village at the Eiffel Tower (from 7 December): ice skating, snacks, a «picture-perfect holiday» atmosphere
- Disneyland has parades and special programmes – are you up for a trip?
- Place d’Abbesses is quiet and homely: raclette, a carousel, a little music
- Some districts host small concerts, children’s shows and master classes – look for posters in shop windows
Paris is especially beautiful at the end of December, even on a simple walk. The city glows: garlands flow down balconies and reflect off the wet pavement. At moments like these, it’s best to leave the route to the audio guide – our Paris guide will tell you where to turn to catch the light, silence and atmosphere.
Food: how to keep warm
In winter, Paris smells different: cheese, mulled wine, fresh pastries and something caramelised from a street stall. Everything around you literally invites you to stop and try it.
- The best way to warm up after a walk is with a plate of pot-au-feu or potato gratin with melted cheese. The festive menu includes chicken with chestnuts, foie gras, cream soups and dishes that simmer for hours – all hearty and hot
- Around Christmas, almost every café serves bûche de Noël – a dessert in the form of a log with chocolate, nuts or fruit. It is both a dessert and a table decoration
- At the fairs, there is simple street food: mulled wine, hot raclette, waffles, cinnamon sweets and casseroles with cheese and potatoes. People grab it on the go and eat it in the cold, without distracting themselves from the shop windows and carousels
- If you don’t want anything complicated, just go to a bakery. In December, they bake gingerbread, brioches with candied fruit, cream puffs – everything that smells like winter
And if you’re interested in what guests are treated to at Christmas in other countries, we’ve put together a whole selection of European winter dishes. Warning: it’s best not to read this on an empty stomach.
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